Day 8, August 10: 4:30 AM came too soon but we got ready and drove to the airport. I realized that this was actually about the time we went to bed the first night we were here! =) The flight into Zagreb was a quick 45 minute nap.
Now we had 7 hours layover to check out Zagreb, the country's capital. We caught a bus from the airport into town then found a "Things to Do" list and city map right outside the bus station. The downtown area had an enormous square with shopping, cafes, and an open market just off one of the streets where the main offering is food but they also sell flowers, trinkets and lavender oil. To get there was a healthy mile and a half walk. The fresh foods at the market looked amazing. Fresh produce, jars of different kinds of honey, even homemade wheels of cheese. I bought a bottle of lavender which was the only thing I'd really been looking for. The we parked ourselves at a cafe to people watch. We put in an order for crêpes and drinks while I wrote out the remaining postcards. After I was done with that I just enjoyed the constantly changing show at our feet. Best outfit to date: A guy dressed straight out of WHAM! High flattop, brunette but frosted blond on the front and back, all white outfit of tank top and cutoff long denim shorts, and sunglasses. And he was rocking that at the boat race!
We went back to the airport and while waiting for our flight, a U2 groupie, probably in her late 30s, early 40s, took a seat as well. U2 was in town for the next 2 nights and we actually saw their plane on the tarmac when we'd arrived. I was thinking it can't be nearly as fun to be a groupie on your own instead of travelling with others who are just as stoked as you are to be following a band. She was on her phone to someone at one point telling them about the previous night's show.
It was a very short ride to Split which we didn't expect because our ticket didn't say anything about a stop in Split. But we made the stop before going to Rome. It is also the strangest process I've gone through to get back on the same plane. We needed to disembark to go through Passport Check.
These were the steps:
- Enter building and go to a small desk to receive new boarding pass.
- Exit out of room to reenter next door through security, 30 feet away.
-Stand in line to have passport scanned.
-Go upstairs to check in at gate (10 feet from escalator) , walk back downstairs into a holding area covered by a tarp.
-Once most passengers have checked in, it's a freeforall to walk out to the plane where an attendant stands at the first set of stairs to direct you to the other stairs if your seat is further back.
Most bizarre process ever. But this is also the country where they load you up on a bus from the airplane and drive you 10 - 20 yards to the terminal entrance. That's what I expect of us lazy Americans but even here they'll let you walk that distance.
We arrived in Rome at 5:05 but only half the plane's luggage came out on the belt. Immediately there were some very upset people demanding their luggage. Somehow, the crate from Split made it to the right belt but the one from Zagreb wasn't with it. It was in the Rome luggage area somewhere and someone was searching for it. Seriously? How does that happen? If it came off the same plane, how does it get misplaced?
The Rome airport was not impressing me. It's one of the most visited airports in the world but it's really dirty, very warm (no A/C in parts), and there were tiny screens listing about 5-6 flights per cargo belt where you have walk half way in to the area to read it. So we waited for our luggage. They rank up with Atlanta for crappy airports in my book. Finally got our luggage at 6:30. Off to buy train tickets.
Here's a tip that applies to anywhere you travel but this is specific to Rome, Italy. Avoid the people who are out to screw you. When we got to the train terminal company, 365 who actually sells tickets for a number of things, they were closed. So there was a window on the other side of the entrance that said "Train Tickets Sold Here". We got to the front and Jason asked for 2 tickets.
Instead of tickets he tried to get us to take a shuttle which was 35 Euro and it would drop us off right at our hotel. He showed us on a map how far it would be for us to walk from the train terminal to our hotel (it's 2 blocks away, whoop dee doo). Again we asked for tickets. He directed us across the walk to the TRENITALIA booth (the train company) which is huge. I don't know how we missed it. The cost for each of us? 11 Euro, not 12 like the guy with the false advertising said it would be. So kids, when you get to the train station at the Rome airport, go straight to the TRENITALIA booth. Ignore the booth with a little banner in English that claims to sell train tickets because they're lying.
It was a 45 minute ride into Rome. We did have to walk the entire length of the terminal since the track we came in on was way in the back. But we arrived at our little hotel. Hotel Piemonte for 70 Euro a night. It's small, like a NY apartment small but we were hardly going to be there. The place is clean, good view from the 3rd floor and a great A/C unit. Bed is firm but that's good for your back right?
We planned out route for the evening. Spanish steps and Trevi Fountain via the Metro line. THAT was an adventure in itself. Being used to the NY subway and Bart/Muni in the Bay Area, we figured the automated stations which are way down in the hot tunnels, would operate the same way, like take a credit card or even give change. Apparently, that's just a crazy concept. You needed exact change. So we hiked back to the ground level and didn't find a place where we could buy a Metro ticket. Why was this so difficult? There wasn't even a booth with a person in it. We finally found a shop that sold things like lottery tickets and gum that did sell the Metro tickets. We found a single ticket booth later on that was way on the other side and only visible if you were riding the A line.
After that frustrating adventure we arrived at the Spanish Steps which was covered with people. There was a 'stage' space set up with barriers, lights, and sound at the base of the steps. Turns out there was going to be a free Opera performance later! We had an hour before it would begin. So we scaled the steps, took a few pics, and then went in search of dinner. We didn't have to wander far. We found a place called 24 Mignanelli which happens to be their address as well. It was a lousy start with a flustered waiter and drinks that took forever. Then we got our 6 Euro bruschette plate. A single large piece of bread with cheese and truffle on it, lying on a small bed of greens. Ah, welcome to the price of Italy.
Fortunately, our main courses were excellent. Jason really loved his lasagne and I got a tagliatelle with meat and mushrooms I believe. The wine was pretty good too. But the best treat was the couple next to us. They are an older Swedish couple who now spend most of their time living in Vietnam. We learned that a form of English actually came from Sweden and that long ago 20% of the Swedish population moved to the States and settled in Minnasota, hence, the Minnasota Vikings. That's your fun fact for the day.
After dinner, we went back to the Spanish Steps to listen to some of the opera which was a beautiful treat then went to find the Trevi Fountain. Now that is truly a sight to behold lit up at night. The grandeur of the sculptures is incredible. People litter the steps in front, snapping pictures, some guys even offering to take your photo for a price. Everyone in Rome is trying to cash in somehow. We called it a night after that. Our feet were so tired they were swollen and we were exhausted having been up since 4:30.
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