The Duomo and Accademia

Day 16, August 18: Today we couldn't manage to get Jason up in time for breakfast so we settled for a small bite next door which wasn't great but then we headed to the Duomo. We walked in and this time I was prepared with a shirt that covered my shoulders.

The Duomo is completely opposite the other churches in the sense that it is far prettier and ornate on the outside than the inside. The outside is covered with carvings and green and white marble. Plus the size of the place alone is intimidating. Inside is plain aside from the beautiful stained glass windows, some of which had shutters closed for some reason.


The area near and above the altar was beautiful and the painting on the dome was fascinating in detail. It depicted hell, tragedy on earth and then the different levels in the heavens with angels and philosophers painted so it looked like they were hanging out from their window looking down into the room. There was also a cool 24 hour clock hanging on the back wall.

We left, stopped for gelato and I was surprised at the line of people waiting to climb the cramped stairs to the top of the Duomo. But the line for the Accademia was just as bad. A few American girls were waiting in line just in front of us and one went to check ahead. She came back with the report that one guy near the front said he waited an hour and a half to get in. Ugh. Jason talked to a woman who was in the reservation line who said she got her reservation ticket at the Uffizi so she didn't have to wait in the long line here.

So we stepped out of line to go there instead. But I saw one of the American girls across the street buying water at a cafe so I felt it was only right I let her and her friend know what we'd just learned. She said they'd waited an hour at the Uffizi the day before! We thought we were screwed now that we stepped out of line but she invited us to join her and her friend back in line. Thank goodness for good Karma.

The rest of the time passed quickly in line while we chatted with Carrie and Lauren. Carrie is a senior at Villanova and Lauren just graduated so she's starting a job when she gets back from Europe. They are doing a whirlwind tour through Florence, Zurich, and Paris all in 10 days and partying all the way.

They recommended a wonderful place for dinner, La Giostra. More on that later. Jason and I split from the girls once inside since they had to catch a train in a few hours. We wandered through an amazing collection of photographs by a deceased photographer named Robert Mapplethorpe. He was fascinated with the human body so there is a series of nudes in different positions and settings. They look just incredible, with muscles rippling and bodies torqued.

Then we finally saw the real David. He is so beautiful. I was studying all the details and imagining the talent and time it took to create this sculpture. I walked around him twice trying to study every inch. Everything else there paled in comparison. We lazily walked around and had lunch at Il David in the square by the Bastille. The food is okay considering it's in a tourist area. I got the Spaghetti aglio olio con pepperoncino and Jason got a ravioli with tomato cream sauce. His didn't have much flavor without the parmesan sprinkled over it. The bread however was the worst bread I've ever tried to eat. Even putting garlic, oil, and cheese didn't make it good. If we're forced to pay for bread the least it can be is edible. At least the espresso was decent.

This is also the first city we've seen gypsies in. They're pretty aggressive too. They don't just walk away from patrons unless the waiters shoo them away. Otherwise, if you acknowledge them even with eye contact they'll stand there mumbling, asking for something and even nudge your arm.


We walked around a little more after lunch and eventually stumbled on the Palazzo Strozzi where they are currently displaying a Galileo exhibit that explores his discoveries as well as others' creations designed to chart the sky, astronomy, and to tell time. It was an amazing layout of old and complicated time pieces that would align the movement of the stars with the calendar and the time of day. There were pictures depicting what people under the influence of a sign and planet were prone to. Apparently, I'm under the moon's influence which means being good at computation (HA!) and justice.

But under another picture it showed Jupiter being connected to Pisces which showed writing and creativity, then another sculpture showed Pisces rules the feet. Jason was very proud that he as a Scorpio, rules the genitals. Astrolabes, ancient clocks, and sundials were interspersed with paintings and sculptures as well as layouts of what was the solar system at the time. The most disturbing painting was of Saturn devouring his child. Legend is that his parents predicted that Saturn, the controller of time would be overthrowned by one of his children. He decided to devour his children in order to prevent it.

It was very enlightening and after a leisurely stroll again we came across all the places Carrie and Lauren mentioned - Old Stove for a mellow bar, Red Garter for a club/karaoke and Space for hardcore drunken good times. We also stopped briefly into the Ferrari store, did a little window shopping, then stumbled onto La Giostra. Perfect since it was dinner time. We had a charming, handsome waiter, who we're sure if he came to the States would pull more tail than he could handle.


La Giostra is a beautiful typical Florence restaurant with arched brick ceilings, intimate space, and a taper candle burning at your table. There are strings of lights crisscrossed and twinkling above and pictures of famous visitors like Chevy Chase, Eli Manning, the new Superman, Brandon Ruth as well as various Italian stars we didn't recognize along the walls.

They serve complimentary Prosecco (Italian sparkling wine) that is delicious and very drinkable. Refills are welcome. They also serve a free appetizer sampler of the following: bruschetta pomodoro and another of rabbit liver, lightly breaded cheese ball with bits of herb and maybe crab in it, mozzarella and tomato, pickled eggplant, mortadella, and a stuffed pepper that had ground meat, olives, and herbs in it.


Jason got a caprese salad with honey, figs, toasted pine nuts, and walnuts that went so well together. The cheese was the most unusual. It was the shape of a beggar's purse with a younger cheese wrapped inside. I had fried artichokes which were delicious but unnecessary after the free dish.

Then we got the dish they are well known for, a pear and cheese ravioli. It's cheese with a hint of pear and it's delicious. But we also realized that here at home, we've been spoiled too. Maurizio's in Morgan Hill has an amazing pear and asiago cheese fiocchi where you can really taste the pear. So if you haven't been there and you want some authentic Italian, that is the place to go! We finished with an excellent espresso (actually tasted like dark chocolate) and cappuccino. It was a perfect ending to a wonderful day.